BETSEY JOHNSON

Betsey Johnson has been a main stay in the retail and fashion world for over 40 years. Her whimsical, flirty, punk rock designs stand as a reminder to the fashion world that fashion can be fun. Betsey is now a proud grandmother for the second time and the new addition to her family obviously influenced her Spring Collection. The extremely theatrical show had three distinct groupings starting with floral maxi dresses and jumpers that if produced in miniature would be appropriate for a toddler. The somewhat silly frocks were worn by models with wigs of purple, pink and white cut blunt and short. Some girls even sucked on lollipops as they strutted down the runway to apropos songs such as “Be my Baby,” “Candy Girl,” and “Mr. Sandman.”
For the second act an actor clad as a pirate made mischief on the runway to the song “Wild Thing.” This was soon followed by mini dresses over striped or skeleton printed leggings, hot pants and bathing suits all influenced by the pirate theme. Next came signature Betsey pieces- floral prints in bright neon colors such as green, pink and blue. Good girls gone bad rounded out the theatrical show: models in white sheer petticoat dresses, hands cuffed behind their backs. Betsey took her customary cartwheel down the runway in a Peter Pan inspired green sequined dress and attendants left the show in high spirits.


Photos by Mercedes Benz fashion Week

MONIQUE LHUILLIER

Always beautiful and feminine, Monique Lhuillier’s spring presentation did not disappoint. Softly sculpted gowns in colors inspired by a vacation in a tropical beach local flowed down the runway. The aptly named colors (azure, sand, summer, pacific blue) and back-to-nature prints such as wave and wheat stalk further exemplified the inspiration.
A silk tulle asymmetrically draped gown in a blue that Lhuiller dubbed “lagoon” appeared to stream along the runway exemplifying the water it was chosen to represent. Beading and tulle overlays further conveyed movement in a collection that was as relaxing and refreshing as a day at the beach.

Photos by Mercedes Benz fashion Week

Return of the King

CHADO- He is back and in fighting form- on Friday night Ralph Rucci closed New York Fashion Week with all the fanfare and warm embrace of the returned prodigal son. Rucci is a prodigious talent and while he is often lost in the minutiae of the New York fashion set, his work stands as a testament to his great talent. As the world of haute couture skirts dangerously close to oblivion it is important that we uphold one of our most brilliant haute courtiers.

I must admit that I am partially biased; I have long been a Rucci enthusiast. For Spring ’09 Rucci sent out a strong line up of clothing suitable for every occasion- from smart day wear to gripping evening gowns. The couturier crystallized those hallmark Ruccisms and move them into a more approachable direction. He showed continued mastery over the art of construction.

Chado is a meditation on form, line and structure. Each season many designers attempt to redesign the wheel, but Rucci instead continues an exploration of his signature shapes enlisting new applications and techniques. Bold shoulders seemed particularly new for the designer who is known for a more gentle approach towards the shoulder and décolleté. He used various types of artistic fringe to great affect, inciting riotous applause as models turned on the runway to reveal the insets of fringe. Illusion with geometric cut outs were a strong motif in this season’s line up. The cutouts appeared on a tulle coat over an A-line dress and on a black sheer top paired with slouchy black satin trousers. Other moments of decadent indulgence included the gowns with Rothko inspired paielletes or the slinky floor length sequins skirt with sheer top and matching jacket.


Spring 09 marked a departure for Rucci who seemed to be courting a younger generation of fashion intellectuals. Though at moments the collection showed the wavering uncertainty of a babe horse gaining her sea legs, Rucci has the talent to address a younger audience and his Spring collection suggests the beginning this new courtship. The collection was proliferated with a plethora of coquettish dresses that remain true to the spirit of Chado. Rucci was careful to remain mindful of his faithful followers offering intriguing pant suits with jackets of rounded shoulders with detailing on tulle or crepe. This collection was an exercise in restrains and what I expect will be the blossoming of a new point of view at the house of Chado.

Welcome back Ralph!

A. Coelho

Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn

Aurelio Costarella

Ruffles reigned supreme at Aurelio Costarella’s Spring ’09 presentation last Thursday. If asked to sum up the collection in one word, I would have to say “feminine” -- O.K., “ULTRA-feminine.” Costarella knows how to dress women. The pieces floated gracefully down the catwalk with models appearing light as feathers (well, actually they were). Sheer fabrics of silk organza and chiffon helped to portray the light, airy mood of the collection, while satin and taffeta provided luxurious shine. The color palette was minimal with just a hint of color sneaking into the mainly neutral story.

Costarella played with proportion keeping silhouettes narrow and sleek while decorating them will full, layered ruffled treatments. Fabrics were multi layered creating dimension and organza’s nature maintained crisp shapes. Asymmetry was an important factor making a statement as many models bared one shoulder (which was a recurring trend throughout Fashion Week). I particularly adored a narrow black micro mini with a huge array of ruffles piled on the right shoulder.

There seemed to be a “black tie” message in the collection as Costarella utilized black and white quite liberally and the jacket made a statement on the runway (feminized with ruffled collars and peplum backs). He also showed cigarette pants, pencil skirts and even a modified version of a tuxedo shirt. He also played with construction by finishing seams on the outside. A few pieces were decorated with sequins or beads while still in keeping with the refined impression of the collection.

Ruching was another detail Costarella repeated throughout. He handled it in such a clever way by choosing just the right spots to add insets. I also loved the way he used different fabric types in some cases when layering the volumes and volumes of ruffles. This created even more visual interest adding dimension and helping to break up the solid colors (which was particularly effective with black on black). I’m not sure how I felt about his use of the oddly colored belts (doubled up many times); however it was an interesting way to add some focus to the waist.

Costarella’s Spring ’09 collection was so beautifully orchestrated. With every designer and every season, one can certainly find a piece or two that isn’t especially their favorite. In this case, I found a couple of dresses that were ruffled “to death” (especially the one wrapping around the arms), but that is just a reflection of my personal taste. These dresses were still spectacular and the rest of the collection was just so pretty, I didn’t even care.

-Stacy Lomman

Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn

Chado Ralph Rucci

Rain, Rush Hour and anticipation fill the tent, as we are anxious to view the featured designer for Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week. I was especially thrilled, as I had come to admire Rucci’s work as a design student.

Rucci’s ability to create weightlessness is his signature, for Spring 09 he crafted this sculpted illusion through insetting horsehair into various seams for malleable definition. This technique enhanced classic suited silhouettes and princess seams made of silk faille. This fabric with a soft drape and dense ribbed texture is a perfect choice for a suit and jacket. These shaped dolman and kimono style sleeves appeared to have gussets stitch into the underarm. A designer will incorporate certain techniques in which allow the garment to be wearable especially when manipulating form. This gusset usually a triangular shape allows the wearer to raise her arm. This three-quarter length pagoda sleeve is known as a Chado hallmark.

Rucci enhanced dimension and depth with his incorporation of geometric shapes. He blended these shapes made of double-faced wool with silk tulle. This strengthened the tension between the concept of structure and weightlessness. Juxtaposing shape with mesh highlighted a transparent, lightweight effect.

Rucci’s palette of primarily neutral tone: white, alabaster, khaki, taupe, ivory, beige and black graced the runway. He accented this collection with bursts of apple green, pale pink, cerise, coral & gold. The incorporation of watercolor and calligraphy inspired silk prints draw a cohesive use of color and allure into this ready-to-wear collection.

The return of Ralph Rucci to New York fashion week was a success. Showing his past two collections in Paris he is the first American designer to show at the couture shows since the 1930’s. His collections past and present reflect his passion and knowledge of art and culture around the world.

Sabyasachi

WELL WELL WELL Mr. Sabyasachi,
Your collection was mix match burlesque girl, meets a nerd/geek Eddie Sedgwick with eyeglasses. In other words, a 20 year old waif english teacher. Girls, watch out for the multi colored fish scale skirts as they are a real "Do-zzie" when the wind blows. The display of prints on silks to satin garments was mesmerizing, Harley Quin look out. But for the weak 20/20 vision impaired, this is an ideal look. Since most colors would blend into one. Sabyaachi's 3rd collection showed strong rays of earthy colors from shiny blacks to reds and browns. A very "A La" vintage ethnic mix with reptile and animal prints makes one think, "lions and tigers and bears o-my". But Sabyasachi I must applaud you by mixing up the simplicity of the over worked college student with a pen stuck in her hair. Reminding me of the decipline of those old school days.
Written by Fauncine Crane
Photos © Stevyn Llewellyn

Araks show

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Araks Yeramyan debuted her Spring 2009 collection yesterday at the Altman Building. The outfits could be described as casual, quirky and comfortable. Lightweight fabrics were layered and mixed in unexpected and untraditional ways, producing an interesting but not necessarily successful result. Curvy lines and rounded shapes were the basis of the collection, recurring in each outfit in the form of princess seams, yoke pieces, pockets, necklines, and deep cut armholes. The round shape was also represented in circle prints.

A feeling of youth and playfulness was evident while models bounced down the runway wearing brightly color blocked high top sneakers and skull caps with ear flaps. While white was the key color, Araks blended a soft neutral palette with a shot of bright candy pink. A couple of dresses in teals and magenta (which is proving to be an important hue for Spring ’09) appeared in the mix as well.

Araks’ lingerie background was evident in the collection, as it could almost crossover into the category of loungewear. Many of the fabrics were soft and sheer, including lace and other novelty textures. Jersey also played a strong role, further emphasizing the comfort factor. Silhouettes were generous and not very body conscious, with the exception of a few pieces including a sexy sheer black lace sheath revealing black panties and a bra underneath.

Shorts sported wide yokes with deep pleats, and while not the most flattering style, they were much more current than the overdone bubble type shorts that showed up a couple of times. Narrow pants added extra fabric in the form of low pockets which stood out and pointed on the sides – not an area that most women want to accentuate.

Overall, the show was at least fun to watch but, the result was less than perfect.

-Stacy Lomman

Jordi Scott presents Infamous Revolution

Jordi Scott presented their Spring/Summer 2009 Infamous Revolution collection at Arena last night and it was a party! Open bar serving bulldog gin, a pre-show slide show of the Ramones and punk rock videos set the tone for the designers. I kept looking for Blondie, Mickey Ramone and Legs McNeil in the audience.

Backstage I had the opportunity to speak with the designers Jordi Scott & partner Starr. Jordi told me that her biggest influence from working for Betsey Johnson was that Betsey followed her voice and did what she wanted to do. Jordi & Starr seem very dedicated to this statement, music being the influence and inspiration they don’t follow traditional market trends yet understand that their customer is a rock star and wants to look and feel the part everyday.

This season’s collection consists of men & women’s street wear, ready to wear and a few evening dresses. The play on prints and use of mixing patterns works for the designer’s aesthetic.

The most memorable pieces in the collection were all black and white animal printed with a hint of men’s wear influence. A denim tuxedo short cuffed, detailed with printed insets at the center front was outlined in grommets and at the princess seams. The Cindy Jumper mixed a black and white bodice print of zebra and cropped fitted pant of leopard. Closing the show a finale dress also black and white animal print styled an asymmetrical neckline and hemline rouched at the side seam with textured ruffled embellishments.

Jordi Scott started their show with a bang- profiling a performance by the band Des Roar. Ben Wolcott- Guitar/Vocals, Lyla Vander- Drums/Vocals, Alan O'keeffe- Guitar, Ryan Spoto- Bass. This Rock/Garage style has seduced Starr, as they are her favorite band. Performing a short set for the fashion show was enough to spark my interest to check out one of their upcoming local performances. http://www.myspace.com/desroar

So for all you rock stars out there, men, women, boys and girls come shop Jordi Scott exclusively at Mark Montano Boutique 43 E. 9th Street NYC 10009.

Touching the Heavens with Feet Firmly Planted

Ports 1961- For those who question whether fashion can transcend its practical use to become something more, to touch on the divine, I suggest turning to the collection of an artist at work- Tia Cibani’s collection for Ports 1961. Her Spring ’09 collection, ‘Beloved of the Sky’, is the collaboration of true artisans, who obviously take great pride in their craft.

Cibani drew inspiration from impressionist painter Emily Carr’s journey through the Canadian totem forest. The color palette reflected Carr’s strong use of bold color- azure blue, subtle sand tones, soft but vibrant yellows and shots of spicy paprika made for a deliciously inspired color story. Cibani called upon various techniques to invoke the grandeur of the soaring totem poles- including tiered layers, tailored lines and manipulated fabrics. She used horizontal bands of fabric in monochromatic color and varying weights to great affect. She offered a plethora of well tailored suit- combining sliming skirts with roomy but structured jackets (often belted). In one intriguing look a model glided out in sand colored cigarette trouser with matching top cover in gigantic leaf shaped sequins. Other uses of embellishments were less successful, as in the barrage of fringe that often pushed some of the looks into the realm of costume.
At the root of this collection, beneath the artistic jewelry and sculptural hats (that may not translate to real life) was a collection of solid spring clothing. Both slouchy and cigarette trousers were present, paired with anvil shaped jackets and coats. Car coats are everywhere, and Cibani’s renditions were some of the most inviting, as in the plum colored version that featured tiers of cotton tulle that faded into tiers of charmeuse. A favorite look was the quintessentially Ports sheath in a textured black fabric belted with a gigantic pleated copper belt- it felt smart and important. A monochromatic print sheath with metallic coat belted is sure to make a strong statement in the board room. For those savvy enough to break the collection a part there are lots of unique pieces that are sure to become Spring ‘09 favorites.
Whether or not you are fashion forward enough to go for the head to toe Ports' look, you certainly have to recognize its merit. This season Cibani partnered with three unique designers to realize her vision. The masterful millinery skills of Karen Henriksen were noteworthy. Jewelry designer Lina Peterson who is well known for her use of unconventional materials offered an innovative and modern take on jewelry. Julia Lundstien shoes provided just the right quotient of organic earthiness to this texturally rich collection.
Perhaps what I found most endearing, most special about this collection, was that it had integrity. This was the culmination of a collaboration of artists who were thinking, striving to create something that upheld their standard of beauty. Whether or not we all subscribe to it is partly irrelevant- it was clear that they were displaying the height and girth of their passion and their abilities and for that I applaud them.

A. Coelho

Gottex

Images from the Gottex show by Stevyn Llewellyn

Diane Vonfurstenberg

Photos from the DVF show

Two Deliriously Jubilant Doses of Youthful Zeal

Miss Sixty- Fashion shows are always bustling scenes but there are certain shows that seem to bring out a very specific type of fashion enthusiast – the kind who hoots and hollers and waits in line for hours just for a shot at “standing room” seating- Miss Sixty continues to be one those cult like shows.
For Spring 09 the Miss Sixty aficionado can look forward to youthful zeal! Miss Sixty is always a show about peace and love – and well just really fun clothing. Anyone who is familiar at all with fashion knows that if you want fun denim Miss Sixty is the place to go. More and more however, the Miss Sixty collection is addressing all the wardrobe needs of their fashion hungry clientele. The prescription for this coming spring is easy enough: prints, color and denim of course!
Chiffon blouses in colorful prints revisit the peace-lovin’ days of 70’s. Even maxis made an appearance, but how can you go 70’s without them! The collection offered a wide spectrum of separates that can be layered to create a very personal look. Billowy tops in a butterfly print and racerback tanks with various silk screened images rounded out the offerings. All in one jumpsuits and rompers are sure to insurrect a tween frenzy.

The palette ranged from neon brights tempered with white to touches of tan and soft ecru colored denim. And just in case you have overdosed on skin-tight denim the Spring‘09 Miss Sixty collection offers an unexpected antidote: Harmen pants. Yes, Harem pants- in your choice of chiffon, lurex or denim. Believe it or not, I am fairly certain some will make their way from the runway to the streets.


Thuy- Need another dose of happy? Well, Thuy will certainly deliver. For Spring’09 the designer showed a hodgepodge of sunbathed separates. It was evident that this collection was aiming to provide a quotient of cheeky ease. Charmeuse mini shorts cuffed in patent leather, shrunken blazers and flirty dresses are sure to make an impression this spring. A Slouchy car coat in bright orange and another in a salt and pepper with shoulder detail were interesting albeit random. This collection is best left to the adeptly fashionable tween set, who are bested prepared to make use of the plethora of pieces that can be layered and mixed for girly glam.

It may soon be time to dawn our new winter coats but for the moment it’s still warm enough to plan next summer’s wardrobe!

A. Coelho

Harlan Bel

I very much looked forward to Harlan Bel’s Spring 2009 show after learning that designer Brandy Lunsford draws inspiration from equestrian themes. Lunsford’s collections always feature tailored, functional pieces that convey “cool confidence and carefree beauty”.

There was something very dignified and noble in Lunsford’s presentation. Classic black and white formed the foundation of the collection, especially in the form of leather and silk. Pleasant jewel tones of turquoise, peridot, and amethyst emblazoned the sleek palette.


Crisp, clean pieces were anything but plain when embellished with canvas and suede suspender-like straps, tiered pleats, and sharp cut-outs. The plethora of short shorts, cropped tees, and strapless dresses were youthful and sexy!

I was absolutely fixated at the frizzy, crimped ponytails swinging back and forth - the wrapped black leather added a touch of high class. The ebony platform heels really brought to mind dainty, galloping hooves. The most amusing accessory was the sophisticated, lady-like eyewear.

ALICE MCCALL SS 2009, Forms to Look For

Text and Photos by Gaby Greenlee

Alice McCall's Spring 2009 show, "All Are Not Insects", was thematically appropriate to the Spring and Summer seasons and maybe not at all a strange title for evoking notions of feminine form and style. The more successful of her pieces paid attention to structural detail (and easily called to mind the attraction of insect forms) without losing the grasp that actual women would be wearing them and not small arthropods.

Her limited palette and the linear theme in some of the pieces also gave strong emphasis to her designs. Pieces that accentuated the lines of the waist or followed the form of the bust or heightened the shadows cast by shoulder blades were able to say something simple about a woman's form while simultaneously pushing style. Less interesting were some of the garments that were more fluid in form because they didn't seem to say one thing or another about the wearer or about an intention-- though one of the more fluid pieces was of a beautiful white, ethereal, lace-thin material, I was more interested in the fabric than in the piece itself.

Still, a few combinations, like the simple blue skirt paired with a soft, deeply-scooped black top threatened to billow into obsolete, flowy, organic, forms but held on to the structure of the model's body just enough to make it interesting. Ultimately, maybe Alice McCall appeals to young women more when she allows for roomier clothing but I think the strongest current in her collection is the one that tilts away from the more easily digestible shifts and frocks and attempts to rein these in to give accent to a woman's body.

Tracy Reese

Tracy Reese’s Spring 2009 collection is a romantic, safari adventure with Oriental undertones. This season, the designer sought to present the “brilliant progression” of nature in the springtime through “delicate, yet sophisticated pieces”.

A garden fantasy was created by splashes of lime, nectarine, and peacock blue while sparkling chandelier earrings and beaded tassel necklaces evoked a majestic celebration. The silhouettes were organic and refreshing - even pin-tucked and ruched pieces gave way to open sleeves and relaxed hems. A tropical breeze emerged in the form of mini lantern skirts, “Macau green” dresses, as well as high collar eyelet blouses, reminiscent of a traditional chipau.

Onyx and cream were softened in a concoction of satin cowls and chiffon floral appliqués. The solid one-shoulder gowns and cinched trenchcoats provided a lovely harmony to the watercolor blouson dresses and Van Gogh-inspired prints. Overall, it was a cheerful and optimistic portrayal of the evolution of spring.

Alexandre Herchcovitch

Alexandre Herchcovitch stayed true to his affinity toward one world in his Spring 2009 presentation. The Brazilian designer aimed to juxtapose Western and Middle Eastern influences to create a “multi-ethnic” army. In the process, he conveys an inspiring and credible message of unity and peace.

The “Army of Love” collection represented a global village where a vision of integrated culture and compassion stood at the forefront. A legion marched down the runway in sheer, delicate “uniforms” of trim waistcoats with gold studs, patchwork tunics, and slouchy breeches. There was a hint of an aristocratic air, yet the floral embroidery and harness expressed a rustic sentiment. Tightly braided updos and buckled ankle boots completed the look.

I enjoyed how utilitarian details were reinterpreted in a more frivolous nature. Military influences became softened amid a sea of silk georgette, lace, and pastel shades of mint, lavender and taupe. Cascading ruffles replaced the ornamental epaulette and dainty paisley prints brought to mind insignias and badges.