We've Moved and Improved. Ready for the Spring 2010 collections

E.Y.Wada Fall 2009

Hello Ladies,
Can I give a cheer for the new York based dynamo couple Eunyoung Song and Shuji Wade, aka E.Y.Wada.
This presentation was like I got smacked across the face- MOUTH DROPPING. A modern and yet younger version of a Marlene Dietrich on a cold breezy day in Poland circuit 1940's Eastern Europe.
The clothes were a mix of strength and romance. Symmetric hemlines, tailored bow front jackets, and cut-out dresses gave a modern, tough edge, while lingerie-inspired sheer fabrics, black lace, draped silks and charmeuse. The look was sexy, but strong.
I humbly bow down to the taste of Bows, Bows, and more Bows artistically placed on wool suits with crinkled Bow front blazers, weaved two piece suits that had reversed stars, to symmetrical pencil skirts that would make anyone drool over. A-line alpaca capes, silk charmeuse Bow dresses that would shimmer perfectly on the woman that really loves the spotlight only on her; Oscars anyone?

-Fauncine Crane
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn

Zac Posen Fall 2009

Five Steinways and draped lamé dresses decorated Zac Posen’s catwalk on Thursday night of Fashion week. His 40’s goddess glamour inspired collection held several Hollywood red carpet potentials, much like his collections as of late. Posen’s ability to create a show so A-list packed, both with models and celebrities, is uncanny. Due to the star studded event, tent security would not let anyone without a physical invitation pass, and the sign-in table mandated picture I.D. The amped up security proved to be worthy of the attendees, who got both a classical concert and a fashion show in one.

Uber-trendy young Hollywood starlets such as Rachel Bilson and Joy Bryant flocked together with fashion giants, stylist Patricia Field and Vogue’s Anna Wintour. The models glided down the runway in beautifully draped and structured ensembles, some more architectural than others, but kept lines all looking fluid. Most of the collection was shown in neutral tones with flashes of bright, shiny color and lots of cocktail jewelry. The proportions of a gray portrait collared dress were fun and reminiscent of soap opera extravagance, all shoulders and body hugging. Another number made in the gray rippled sheer had a sweet hint of bright purple underneath, visible slightly through the body and peeked out at the bubble hem.

There was one sparkly number than caught the attention of this writer in particular. When a gorgeous hybrid of gold-silver lamé with a built up collar and plunging neckline came down the catwalk, you could almost hear the stylist’s pens circling this piece on their programs. One could almost place bets on this piece ending up on one of Rachel Zoe’s celeb clientele. Mr. Zac Posen, with the looks of this production, if you design, we will come regardless of the ridiculously tight security measures.

R. Em

Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn

The Optimist: Miss Sixty Fall 09

80’s influences and the Miss Sixty show gave birth to a fabulous love child. The spring show in September played into this collection as well, keeping the flower child aura. But this time the berets, much like the rest of the collection, were made of substantial beautiful leathers. The Fall collection amped up the attitude and the fun, like a rumble between Hillbillies and Hell’s Angels. Latter parts of the show gave way to patent puffer dresses and magazine cover prints reminiscent of 60’s pop art.

The show was full of pumping girl-rock music, celebrity status models (a.k.a. Karlie Kloss), messy waved hair, and kohl rimmed intense eyes. The look was feminine but tough, full of leather, hardware, and big bold prints. Obvious homage to the era was shown in acid washed tight jeans, something teen girls everywhere will be yanking up off the Miss Sixty racks. If the recent appearance of acid wash didn’t get your attention before, it just punched you in the face. Large print plaid and harem jeans made a debut together in a playful silhouette evocative of hunter garb, thankfully, sans mullet and shotgun.

The color, while starting off more muted and pattern oriented, grew into a more concentrated primary palette with bright fire engine red, purples, and stark white. Bold printwork reminiscent of early 60’s Lichtenstein art covered pants, dresses, and tops. Patterned and lace tights played in beautifully and modernized the looks, along with black footwear ranging from pumps to pirate boots. Miss Sixty celebrated rock and the extremes, long blousson sleeves to full peplum skirts on dresses. Most everything was “big” from silhouette to printwork, except for the second skin denim.

Even the fur was grungy, matted and black, it looked like someone had taken the arms off of a gorilla and sewn them into cropped jackets, boleros, and scarves that screamed bad-ass. The street-cred of Miss Sixty, however high up there, will definitely get bolstered up another notch after watching this energetic show. Even the models looked like they owned the world, and for a moment we were all in the effervescence of the 80’s and the stock market revival of the 60’s.

-R. Em

Alexandre Herchcovitch

Who says that the Spring shows have a monopoly on color?

Alexandre, the Brazilian designer, lit up the runway from start to finish. It was the 1980s meet the 1920s ;complete with feathers and fur and rich jewel tones. Not only were the clothes vibrant...the accessories had a life of their own with beads and sequins and sparkle. The models wore gloves and feather handbands and carried cute clutches.

While he was clearly moved by color in this collection, in the middle of the presentation, there was all black story and the fashionistas took notice.

Overall his workmanship was impeccable with pieced jackets and ruffled insets. There was so much detail in every piece that a show repeat would have been welcome.

Romance in the Shadows: A Downtown Take on Romance

For Fall Yigal Azrouel offered an intriguing take on Romanticism, one that is decidedly dark and moody and yet true to the designer’s downtown sensibility. This modern take on romanticism embraces a strong edgy woman, the kind of woman who is certainly the mistress of her own destiny (and probably lives below 14th street). She defines her femininity not in conventional ruffles and flowers but in a dirtier more visceral take on those themes.
This season Azrouel attempted to marry takes on streamline structured pieces with softer draped looks. In the past the designer has showed an interest in tailoring and he has certainly received note for his way with draping. This season he offered a bit of both. There were dresses with strong sculptural elements, be it peplumed waists or sculpted shoulders. There were also soft draped moments in the way of diaphanous blouses and dresses. The key silhouette appeared to be a narrow leg with a voluminous top: narrow trousers were paired with blouson blouses, Fair Isle cardigans and roomy coats.
In the days of Monsieur Dior it was the designer who dictated la mode, nowadays it is a far more collaborative effort with designers bending an ear to the whims of their clientele. Azourel made no apologies for catering to desires of his wanton followers: offering her leather jackets with stud detailing, wearable trousers both lean and roomy and sensual dresses both draped and structured that were nothing short of the cool she demands. Take the putty colored draped mini dress or the lean, architectural dresses offered for day- all of which oozed an air of modern femininity. This was a well balanced collection that addresses all the dressing needs of the contemporary woman from day to evening. It is promising to see when a designer can hold two thoughts at once- in this collection Azourel toys with the tension between opposites- romantic interludes v.s. renegade barriers and more practically draping v.s. tailored structure.
The palette consisted of shadowy tones ranging from gray to purple with a few shots of vibrant color. Where the range in color was limited Azourel embraced textures. He showed ring spun knits with mink and pin-studded leather with tweed. The mix of elements and textures gave the collection a more luxurious feel. The clothes looked like they would feel good and take you just about anywhere.
What you have to love about Azrouel is that he is relatively young, certainly still in the beginning of his career. One can’t help wonder how far this designer will go as he continues to define his voice and builds a relationship with his audience.
- Alexander Coelho

Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn. See more at Modern Glossy

Nicole Miller

Nicole Miller presents a sleek and darkly industrial collection for Fall 2009. Her colour palette is striking and rich. While lacy cocktail dresses, felt coats and separates are gunmetal black, paint can splashes of cobalt blue and lipstick red add a wonderful pop art vibe.

Solid black dominates the line, but luxurious textures such as hammered silk, stretch taffeta, and shiny leather keep things visually appealing. Some looks are decidedly edgy, with deep square-cut necklines, but take note of the sheer cap sleeves and another all-over black look becomes flirty and sweet. A very wearable collection, Miller offers flattering fit and easy glamour. Divine details include sequins, exposed zippers, and piles of draping chain links.

The angular look is accentuated with amusing pleats reminiscent of shingles, as well as geometric prints of black & white shards and plum-coloured twisted metal. The soot-like eyeshadow and towering, steel stilettos provide perfect finishing touches.

- Tiffany Chang

Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn

See more at: Modern Glossy