Romance in the Shadows: A Downtown Take on Romance

For Fall Yigal Azrouel offered an intriguing take on Romanticism, one that is decidedly dark and moody and yet true to the designer’s downtown sensibility. This modern take on romanticism embraces a strong edgy woman, the kind of woman who is certainly the mistress of her own destiny (and probably lives below 14th street). She defines her femininity not in conventional ruffles and flowers but in a dirtier more visceral take on those themes.
This season Azrouel attempted to marry takes on streamline structured pieces with softer draped looks. In the past the designer has showed an interest in tailoring and he has certainly received note for his way with draping. This season he offered a bit of both. There were dresses with strong sculptural elements, be it peplumed waists or sculpted shoulders. There were also soft draped moments in the way of diaphanous blouses and dresses. The key silhouette appeared to be a narrow leg with a voluminous top: narrow trousers were paired with blouson blouses, Fair Isle cardigans and roomy coats.
In the days of Monsieur Dior it was the designer who dictated la mode, nowadays it is a far more collaborative effort with designers bending an ear to the whims of their clientele. Azourel made no apologies for catering to desires of his wanton followers: offering her leather jackets with stud detailing, wearable trousers both lean and roomy and sensual dresses both draped and structured that were nothing short of the cool she demands. Take the putty colored draped mini dress or the lean, architectural dresses offered for day- all of which oozed an air of modern femininity. This was a well balanced collection that addresses all the dressing needs of the contemporary woman from day to evening. It is promising to see when a designer can hold two thoughts at once- in this collection Azourel toys with the tension between opposites- romantic interludes v.s. renegade barriers and more practically draping v.s. tailored structure.
The palette consisted of shadowy tones ranging from gray to purple with a few shots of vibrant color. Where the range in color was limited Azourel embraced textures. He showed ring spun knits with mink and pin-studded leather with tweed. The mix of elements and textures gave the collection a more luxurious feel. The clothes looked like they would feel good and take you just about anywhere.
What you have to love about Azrouel is that he is relatively young, certainly still in the beginning of his career. One can’t help wonder how far this designer will go as he continues to define his voice and builds a relationship with his audience.
- Alexander Coelho

Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn. See more at Modern Glossy

Nicole Miller

Nicole Miller presents a sleek and darkly industrial collection for Fall 2009. Her colour palette is striking and rich. While lacy cocktail dresses, felt coats and separates are gunmetal black, paint can splashes of cobalt blue and lipstick red add a wonderful pop art vibe.

Solid black dominates the line, but luxurious textures such as hammered silk, stretch taffeta, and shiny leather keep things visually appealing. Some looks are decidedly edgy, with deep square-cut necklines, but take note of the sheer cap sleeves and another all-over black look becomes flirty and sweet. A very wearable collection, Miller offers flattering fit and easy glamour. Divine details include sequins, exposed zippers, and piles of draping chain links.

The angular look is accentuated with amusing pleats reminiscent of shingles, as well as geometric prints of black & white shards and plum-coloured twisted metal. The soot-like eyeshadow and towering, steel stilettos provide perfect finishing touches.

- Tiffany Chang

Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn

See more at: Modern Glossy

Loris Dorin ~ Armor

Recessionsistas fall back...New York Fashion Week is back.

Actually it starts tomorrow but Loris Diran, a designer of French-Armenian descent, showed his Ready to Wear collection today.

Yours truly with fellow fashionistas and fashionistos braved the fierce February winds to cue up outside the Altman building. Yes, it was a brisk wait but once seated the show was fabulous.

Diran titled his Fall 2009 show"Armor" in tribute to our ability to be resilient in tough times and look great doing it. Although raised in the US, one can see his nod to European workmanship. Between the detailed corsets and well draped gowns and fitted suits...the show was a visual stunner.



While the clothes and accessories are the focus of the show, look at the work of the hair stylist...those updos are quite intricate.

This lovely collection will be sold at Loris Diran Boutique.

Alicia "aka" Fashiona

House of Berardi

Exclusve fashion show photos by Stevyn Llewellyn of the House of Berardi show in New York. Click here to view

Carline Hedeya

Please visit our website for more images of this exclusive fashion event in New York. Click here to see the Caroline Hedaya fashion show with photos by Stevyn Llewellyn.

BETSEY JOHNSON

Betsey Johnson has been a main stay in the retail and fashion world for over 40 years. Her whimsical, flirty, punk rock designs stand as a reminder to the fashion world that fashion can be fun. Betsey is now a proud grandmother for the second time and the new addition to her family obviously influenced her Spring Collection. The extremely theatrical show had three distinct groupings starting with floral maxi dresses and jumpers that if produced in miniature would be appropriate for a toddler. The somewhat silly frocks were worn by models with wigs of purple, pink and white cut blunt and short. Some girls even sucked on lollipops as they strutted down the runway to apropos songs such as “Be my Baby,” “Candy Girl,” and “Mr. Sandman.”
For the second act an actor clad as a pirate made mischief on the runway to the song “Wild Thing.” This was soon followed by mini dresses over striped or skeleton printed leggings, hot pants and bathing suits all influenced by the pirate theme. Next came signature Betsey pieces- floral prints in bright neon colors such as green, pink and blue. Good girls gone bad rounded out the theatrical show: models in white sheer petticoat dresses, hands cuffed behind their backs. Betsey took her customary cartwheel down the runway in a Peter Pan inspired green sequined dress and attendants left the show in high spirits.


Photos by Mercedes Benz fashion Week

MONIQUE LHUILLIER

Always beautiful and feminine, Monique Lhuillier’s spring presentation did not disappoint. Softly sculpted gowns in colors inspired by a vacation in a tropical beach local flowed down the runway. The aptly named colors (azure, sand, summer, pacific blue) and back-to-nature prints such as wave and wheat stalk further exemplified the inspiration.
A silk tulle asymmetrically draped gown in a blue that Lhuiller dubbed “lagoon” appeared to stream along the runway exemplifying the water it was chosen to represent. Beading and tulle overlays further conveyed movement in a collection that was as relaxing and refreshing as a day at the beach.

Photos by Mercedes Benz fashion Week

SERGIO DAVILA

Sergio Davila has been producing menswear for some time, but this was his debut runway show under the tents at New York Fashion Week. His elegantly tailored suiting was often edged with athletic stripes or other quirky detail that lent a unique air to his pieces. Some suits were accented with slightly feminine detail such as mandarin collars or loose knitting that provided glimpses of skin. The women’s wear was sporty and sexy with sheer crocheting and keyhole detailing. The entire collection appeared casual and comfortable yet extremely well tailored- all in all an exceedingly successfully runway debut.



Photos by Mercedes Benz fashion Week

TONI MATICEVSKI

Toni Maticevski’s show was held off site at the Roger Williams Hotel on Sunday, September 7, 2008. Maticevski is a young Australian designer showing for the fourth time at New York fashion week. His Spring 2009 collection was inspired by both the book “Inventive Paris Clothes 1909-1939” and by the fashion of this period. His inspiration was immediately evident in several of his 1920s inspired dresses. These short dresses were hemmed with silk fringe that swung as the models walked and were reminiscent of a flapper girl’s costume.

Maticevski choose to work mostly in silk and lace, often embellished by flower appliqué or long coiled shoulder details. His draping and pleating was beautifully accomplished and at times origami-esque. A few pieces were extremely sheer, but the silhouettes of these dresses and even the boudoir feel added to the overall nostalgic mood of the presentation. The collection was exquisitely tailored and wearable yet full of interesting detail to distinguish it.

Return of the King

CHADO- He is back and in fighting form- on Friday night Ralph Rucci closed New York Fashion Week with all the fanfare and warm embrace of the returned prodigal son. Rucci is a prodigious talent and while he is often lost in the minutiae of the New York fashion set, his work stands as a testament to his great talent. As the world of haute couture skirts dangerously close to oblivion it is important that we uphold one of our most brilliant haute courtiers.

I must admit that I am partially biased; I have long been a Rucci enthusiast. For Spring ’09 Rucci sent out a strong line up of clothing suitable for every occasion- from smart day wear to gripping evening gowns. The couturier crystallized those hallmark Ruccisms and move them into a more approachable direction. He showed continued mastery over the art of construction.

Chado is a meditation on form, line and structure. Each season many designers attempt to redesign the wheel, but Rucci instead continues an exploration of his signature shapes enlisting new applications and techniques. Bold shoulders seemed particularly new for the designer who is known for a more gentle approach towards the shoulder and décolleté. He used various types of artistic fringe to great affect, inciting riotous applause as models turned on the runway to reveal the insets of fringe. Illusion with geometric cut outs were a strong motif in this season’s line up. The cutouts appeared on a tulle coat over an A-line dress and on a black sheer top paired with slouchy black satin trousers. Other moments of decadent indulgence included the gowns with Rothko inspired paielletes or the slinky floor length sequins skirt with sheer top and matching jacket.


Spring 09 marked a departure for Rucci who seemed to be courting a younger generation of fashion intellectuals. Though at moments the collection showed the wavering uncertainty of a babe horse gaining her sea legs, Rucci has the talent to address a younger audience and his Spring collection suggests the beginning this new courtship. The collection was proliferated with a plethora of coquettish dresses that remain true to the spirit of Chado. Rucci was careful to remain mindful of his faithful followers offering intriguing pant suits with jackets of rounded shoulders with detailing on tulle or crepe. This collection was an exercise in restrains and what I expect will be the blossoming of a new point of view at the house of Chado.

Welcome back Ralph!

A. Coelho

Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn

Aurelio Costarella

Ruffles reigned supreme at Aurelio Costarella’s Spring ’09 presentation last Thursday. If asked to sum up the collection in one word, I would have to say “feminine” -- O.K., “ULTRA-feminine.” Costarella knows how to dress women. The pieces floated gracefully down the catwalk with models appearing light as feathers (well, actually they were). Sheer fabrics of silk organza and chiffon helped to portray the light, airy mood of the collection, while satin and taffeta provided luxurious shine. The color palette was minimal with just a hint of color sneaking into the mainly neutral story.

Costarella played with proportion keeping silhouettes narrow and sleek while decorating them will full, layered ruffled treatments. Fabrics were multi layered creating dimension and organza’s nature maintained crisp shapes. Asymmetry was an important factor making a statement as many models bared one shoulder (which was a recurring trend throughout Fashion Week). I particularly adored a narrow black micro mini with a huge array of ruffles piled on the right shoulder.

There seemed to be a “black tie” message in the collection as Costarella utilized black and white quite liberally and the jacket made a statement on the runway (feminized with ruffled collars and peplum backs). He also showed cigarette pants, pencil skirts and even a modified version of a tuxedo shirt. He also played with construction by finishing seams on the outside. A few pieces were decorated with sequins or beads while still in keeping with the refined impression of the collection.

Ruching was another detail Costarella repeated throughout. He handled it in such a clever way by choosing just the right spots to add insets. I also loved the way he used different fabric types in some cases when layering the volumes and volumes of ruffles. This created even more visual interest adding dimension and helping to break up the solid colors (which was particularly effective with black on black). I’m not sure how I felt about his use of the oddly colored belts (doubled up many times); however it was an interesting way to add some focus to the waist.

Costarella’s Spring ’09 collection was so beautifully orchestrated. With every designer and every season, one can certainly find a piece or two that isn’t especially their favorite. In this case, I found a couple of dresses that were ruffled “to death” (especially the one wrapping around the arms), but that is just a reflection of my personal taste. These dresses were still spectacular and the rest of the collection was just so pretty, I didn’t even care.

-Stacy Lomman

Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn

Chado Ralph Rucci

Rain, Rush Hour and anticipation fill the tent, as we are anxious to view the featured designer for Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week. I was especially thrilled, as I had come to admire Rucci’s work as a design student.

Rucci’s ability to create weightlessness is his signature, for Spring 09 he crafted this sculpted illusion through insetting horsehair into various seams for malleable definition. This technique enhanced classic suited silhouettes and princess seams made of silk faille. This fabric with a soft drape and dense ribbed texture is a perfect choice for a suit and jacket. These shaped dolman and kimono style sleeves appeared to have gussets stitch into the underarm. A designer will incorporate certain techniques in which allow the garment to be wearable especially when manipulating form. This gusset usually a triangular shape allows the wearer to raise her arm. This three-quarter length pagoda sleeve is known as a Chado hallmark.

Rucci enhanced dimension and depth with his incorporation of geometric shapes. He blended these shapes made of double-faced wool with silk tulle. This strengthened the tension between the concept of structure and weightlessness. Juxtaposing shape with mesh highlighted a transparent, lightweight effect.

Rucci’s palette of primarily neutral tone: white, alabaster, khaki, taupe, ivory, beige and black graced the runway. He accented this collection with bursts of apple green, pale pink, cerise, coral & gold. The incorporation of watercolor and calligraphy inspired silk prints draw a cohesive use of color and allure into this ready-to-wear collection.

The return of Ralph Rucci to New York fashion week was a success. Showing his past two collections in Paris he is the first American designer to show at the couture shows since the 1930’s. His collections past and present reflect his passion and knowledge of art and culture around the world.

Sabyasachi

WELL WELL WELL Mr. Sabyasachi,
Your collection was mix match burlesque girl, meets a nerd/geek Eddie Sedgwick with eyeglasses. In other words, a 20 year old waif english teacher. Girls, watch out for the multi colored fish scale skirts as they are a real "Do-zzie" when the wind blows. The display of prints on silks to satin garments was mesmerizing, Harley Quin look out. But for the weak 20/20 vision impaired, this is an ideal look. Since most colors would blend into one. Sabyaachi's 3rd collection showed strong rays of earthy colors from shiny blacks to reds and browns. A very "A La" vintage ethnic mix with reptile and animal prints makes one think, "lions and tigers and bears o-my". But Sabyasachi I must applaud you by mixing up the simplicity of the over worked college student with a pen stuck in her hair. Reminding me of the decipline of those old school days.
Written by Fauncine Crane
Photos © Stevyn Llewellyn

Araks show

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Araks Yeramyan debuted her Spring 2009 collection yesterday at the Altman Building. The outfits could be described as casual, quirky and comfortable. Lightweight fabrics were layered and mixed in unexpected and untraditional ways, producing an interesting but not necessarily successful result. Curvy lines and rounded shapes were the basis of the collection, recurring in each outfit in the form of princess seams, yoke pieces, pockets, necklines, and deep cut armholes. The round shape was also represented in circle prints.

A feeling of youth and playfulness was evident while models bounced down the runway wearing brightly color blocked high top sneakers and skull caps with ear flaps. While white was the key color, Araks blended a soft neutral palette with a shot of bright candy pink. A couple of dresses in teals and magenta (which is proving to be an important hue for Spring ’09) appeared in the mix as well.

Araks’ lingerie background was evident in the collection, as it could almost crossover into the category of loungewear. Many of the fabrics were soft and sheer, including lace and other novelty textures. Jersey also played a strong role, further emphasizing the comfort factor. Silhouettes were generous and not very body conscious, with the exception of a few pieces including a sexy sheer black lace sheath revealing black panties and a bra underneath.

Shorts sported wide yokes with deep pleats, and while not the most flattering style, they were much more current than the overdone bubble type shorts that showed up a couple of times. Narrow pants added extra fabric in the form of low pockets which stood out and pointed on the sides – not an area that most women want to accentuate.

Overall, the show was at least fun to watch but, the result was less than perfect.

-Stacy Lomman

Touching the Heavens with Feet Firmly Planted

Ports 1961- For those who question whether fashion can transcend its practical use to become something more, to touch on the divine, I suggest turning to the collection of an artist at work- Tia Cibani’s collection for Ports 1961. Her Spring ’09 collection, ‘Beloved of the Sky’, is the collaboration of true artisans, who obviously take great pride in their craft.

Cibani drew inspiration from impressionist painter Emily Carr’s journey through the Canadian totem forest. The color palette reflected Carr’s strong use of bold color- azure blue, subtle sand tones, soft but vibrant yellows and shots of spicy paprika made for a deliciously inspired color story. Cibani called upon various techniques to invoke the grandeur of the soaring totem poles- including tiered layers, tailored lines and manipulated fabrics. She used horizontal bands of fabric in monochromatic color and varying weights to great affect. She offered a plethora of well tailored suit- combining sliming skirts with roomy but structured jackets (often belted). In one intriguing look a model glided out in sand colored cigarette trouser with matching top cover in gigantic leaf shaped sequins. Other uses of embellishments were less successful, as in the barrage of fringe that often pushed some of the looks into the realm of costume.
At the root of this collection, beneath the artistic jewelry and sculptural hats (that may not translate to real life) was a collection of solid spring clothing. Both slouchy and cigarette trousers were present, paired with anvil shaped jackets and coats. Car coats are everywhere, and Cibani’s renditions were some of the most inviting, as in the plum colored version that featured tiers of cotton tulle that faded into tiers of charmeuse. A favorite look was the quintessentially Ports sheath in a textured black fabric belted with a gigantic pleated copper belt- it felt smart and important. A monochromatic print sheath with metallic coat belted is sure to make a strong statement in the board room. For those savvy enough to break the collection a part there are lots of unique pieces that are sure to become Spring ‘09 favorites.
Whether or not you are fashion forward enough to go for the head to toe Ports' look, you certainly have to recognize its merit. This season Cibani partnered with three unique designers to realize her vision. The masterful millinery skills of Karen Henriksen were noteworthy. Jewelry designer Lina Peterson who is well known for her use of unconventional materials offered an innovative and modern take on jewelry. Julia Lundstien shoes provided just the right quotient of organic earthiness to this texturally rich collection.
Perhaps what I found most endearing, most special about this collection, was that it had integrity. This was the culmination of a collaboration of artists who were thinking, striving to create something that upheld their standard of beauty. Whether or not we all subscribe to it is partly irrelevant- it was clear that they were displaying the height and girth of their passion and their abilities and for that I applaud them.

A. Coelho

Mara Hoffman

For Spring 2009, Mara Hoffman presented a collection suitable for an exotic, tropical getaway. A bevy of geometric prints and intricate floral details on one-shoulder sheaths and tunics looked refreshing, especially when paired with tailored pieces. Airy cotton and linen paired well with leather accessories and canvas trenchcoats. Bandeau tops and tapered shorts were staples as well as the “Mara Tote”, a hot travel accessory and chic vest all in one!

Resort-fabulous pieces include a white babydoll, absolutely darling with frog clasps under an embroidered, kimono-sleeved robe. A halter swimsuit featuring black and yellow henna designs and the ornate blue and orange sari-wrapped bikini were marvelous.

Gottex

Images from the Gottex show by Stevyn Llewellyn

Diane Vonfurstenberg

Photos from the DVF show

Two Deliriously Jubilant Doses of Youthful Zeal

Miss Sixty- Fashion shows are always bustling scenes but there are certain shows that seem to bring out a very specific type of fashion enthusiast – the kind who hoots and hollers and waits in line for hours just for a shot at “standing room” seating- Miss Sixty continues to be one those cult like shows.
For Spring 09 the Miss Sixty aficionado can look forward to youthful zeal! Miss Sixty is always a show about peace and love – and well just really fun clothing. Anyone who is familiar at all with fashion knows that if you want fun denim Miss Sixty is the place to go. More and more however, the Miss Sixty collection is addressing all the wardrobe needs of their fashion hungry clientele. The prescription for this coming spring is easy enough: prints, color and denim of course!
Chiffon blouses in colorful prints revisit the peace-lovin’ days of 70’s. Even maxis made an appearance, but how can you go 70’s without them! The collection offered a wide spectrum of separates that can be layered to create a very personal look. Billowy tops in a butterfly print and racerback tanks with various silk screened images rounded out the offerings. All in one jumpsuits and rompers are sure to insurrect a tween frenzy.

The palette ranged from neon brights tempered with white to touches of tan and soft ecru colored denim. And just in case you have overdosed on skin-tight denim the Spring‘09 Miss Sixty collection offers an unexpected antidote: Harmen pants. Yes, Harem pants- in your choice of chiffon, lurex or denim. Believe it or not, I am fairly certain some will make their way from the runway to the streets.


Thuy- Need another dose of happy? Well, Thuy will certainly deliver. For Spring’09 the designer showed a hodgepodge of sunbathed separates. It was evident that this collection was aiming to provide a quotient of cheeky ease. Charmeuse mini shorts cuffed in patent leather, shrunken blazers and flirty dresses are sure to make an impression this spring. A Slouchy car coat in bright orange and another in a salt and pepper with shoulder detail were interesting albeit random. This collection is best left to the adeptly fashionable tween set, who are bested prepared to make use of the plethora of pieces that can be layered and mixed for girly glam.

It may soon be time to dawn our new winter coats but for the moment it’s still warm enough to plan next summer’s wardrobe!

A. Coelho

Harlan Bel

I very much looked forward to Harlan Bel’s Spring 2009 show after learning that designer Brandy Lunsford draws inspiration from equestrian themes. Lunsford’s collections always feature tailored, functional pieces that convey “cool confidence and carefree beauty”.

There was something very dignified and noble in Lunsford’s presentation. Classic black and white formed the foundation of the collection, especially in the form of leather and silk. Pleasant jewel tones of turquoise, peridot, and amethyst emblazoned the sleek palette.


Crisp, clean pieces were anything but plain when embellished with canvas and suede suspender-like straps, tiered pleats, and sharp cut-outs. The plethora of short shorts, cropped tees, and strapless dresses were youthful and sexy!

I was absolutely fixated at the frizzy, crimped ponytails swinging back and forth - the wrapped black leather added a touch of high class. The ebony platform heels really brought to mind dainty, galloping hooves. The most amusing accessory was the sophisticated, lady-like eyewear.