BETSEY JOHNSON

Betsey Johnson has been a main stay in the retail and fashion world for over 40 years. Her whimsical, flirty, punk rock designs stand as a reminder to the fashion world that fashion can be fun. Betsey is now a proud grandmother for the second time and the new addition to her family obviously influenced her Spring Collection. The extremely theatrical show had three distinct groupings starting with floral maxi dresses and jumpers that if produced in miniature would be appropriate for a toddler. The somewhat silly frocks were worn by models with wigs of purple, pink and white cut blunt and short. Some girls even sucked on lollipops as they strutted down the runway to apropos songs such as “Be my Baby,” “Candy Girl,” and “Mr. Sandman.”
For the second act an actor clad as a pirate made mischief on the runway to the song “Wild Thing.” This was soon followed by mini dresses over striped or skeleton printed leggings, hot pants and bathing suits all influenced by the pirate theme. Next came signature Betsey pieces- floral prints in bright neon colors such as green, pink and blue. Good girls gone bad rounded out the theatrical show: models in white sheer petticoat dresses, hands cuffed behind their backs. Betsey took her customary cartwheel down the runway in a Peter Pan inspired green sequined dress and attendants left the show in high spirits.


Photos by Mercedes Benz fashion Week

MONIQUE LHUILLIER

Always beautiful and feminine, Monique Lhuillier’s spring presentation did not disappoint. Softly sculpted gowns in colors inspired by a vacation in a tropical beach local flowed down the runway. The aptly named colors (azure, sand, summer, pacific blue) and back-to-nature prints such as wave and wheat stalk further exemplified the inspiration.
A silk tulle asymmetrically draped gown in a blue that Lhuiller dubbed “lagoon” appeared to stream along the runway exemplifying the water it was chosen to represent. Beading and tulle overlays further conveyed movement in a collection that was as relaxing and refreshing as a day at the beach.

Photos by Mercedes Benz fashion Week

SERGIO DAVILA

Sergio Davila has been producing menswear for some time, but this was his debut runway show under the tents at New York Fashion Week. His elegantly tailored suiting was often edged with athletic stripes or other quirky detail that lent a unique air to his pieces. Some suits were accented with slightly feminine detail such as mandarin collars or loose knitting that provided glimpses of skin. The women’s wear was sporty and sexy with sheer crocheting and keyhole detailing. The entire collection appeared casual and comfortable yet extremely well tailored- all in all an exceedingly successfully runway debut.



Photos by Mercedes Benz fashion Week

TONI MATICEVSKI

Toni Maticevski’s show was held off site at the Roger Williams Hotel on Sunday, September 7, 2008. Maticevski is a young Australian designer showing for the fourth time at New York fashion week. His Spring 2009 collection was inspired by both the book “Inventive Paris Clothes 1909-1939” and by the fashion of this period. His inspiration was immediately evident in several of his 1920s inspired dresses. These short dresses were hemmed with silk fringe that swung as the models walked and were reminiscent of a flapper girl’s costume.

Maticevski choose to work mostly in silk and lace, often embellished by flower appliqué or long coiled shoulder details. His draping and pleating was beautifully accomplished and at times origami-esque. A few pieces were extremely sheer, but the silhouettes of these dresses and even the boudoir feel added to the overall nostalgic mood of the presentation. The collection was exquisitely tailored and wearable yet full of interesting detail to distinguish it.

Return of the King

CHADO- He is back and in fighting form- on Friday night Ralph Rucci closed New York Fashion Week with all the fanfare and warm embrace of the returned prodigal son. Rucci is a prodigious talent and while he is often lost in the minutiae of the New York fashion set, his work stands as a testament to his great talent. As the world of haute couture skirts dangerously close to oblivion it is important that we uphold one of our most brilliant haute courtiers.

I must admit that I am partially biased; I have long been a Rucci enthusiast. For Spring ’09 Rucci sent out a strong line up of clothing suitable for every occasion- from smart day wear to gripping evening gowns. The couturier crystallized those hallmark Ruccisms and move them into a more approachable direction. He showed continued mastery over the art of construction.

Chado is a meditation on form, line and structure. Each season many designers attempt to redesign the wheel, but Rucci instead continues an exploration of his signature shapes enlisting new applications and techniques. Bold shoulders seemed particularly new for the designer who is known for a more gentle approach towards the shoulder and décolleté. He used various types of artistic fringe to great affect, inciting riotous applause as models turned on the runway to reveal the insets of fringe. Illusion with geometric cut outs were a strong motif in this season’s line up. The cutouts appeared on a tulle coat over an A-line dress and on a black sheer top paired with slouchy black satin trousers. Other moments of decadent indulgence included the gowns with Rothko inspired paielletes or the slinky floor length sequins skirt with sheer top and matching jacket.


Spring 09 marked a departure for Rucci who seemed to be courting a younger generation of fashion intellectuals. Though at moments the collection showed the wavering uncertainty of a babe horse gaining her sea legs, Rucci has the talent to address a younger audience and his Spring collection suggests the beginning this new courtship. The collection was proliferated with a plethora of coquettish dresses that remain true to the spirit of Chado. Rucci was careful to remain mindful of his faithful followers offering intriguing pant suits with jackets of rounded shoulders with detailing on tulle or crepe. This collection was an exercise in restrains and what I expect will be the blossoming of a new point of view at the house of Chado.

Welcome back Ralph!

A. Coelho

Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn

Aurelio Costarella

Ruffles reigned supreme at Aurelio Costarella’s Spring ’09 presentation last Thursday. If asked to sum up the collection in one word, I would have to say “feminine” -- O.K., “ULTRA-feminine.” Costarella knows how to dress women. The pieces floated gracefully down the catwalk with models appearing light as feathers (well, actually they were). Sheer fabrics of silk organza and chiffon helped to portray the light, airy mood of the collection, while satin and taffeta provided luxurious shine. The color palette was minimal with just a hint of color sneaking into the mainly neutral story.

Costarella played with proportion keeping silhouettes narrow and sleek while decorating them will full, layered ruffled treatments. Fabrics were multi layered creating dimension and organza’s nature maintained crisp shapes. Asymmetry was an important factor making a statement as many models bared one shoulder (which was a recurring trend throughout Fashion Week). I particularly adored a narrow black micro mini with a huge array of ruffles piled on the right shoulder.

There seemed to be a “black tie” message in the collection as Costarella utilized black and white quite liberally and the jacket made a statement on the runway (feminized with ruffled collars and peplum backs). He also showed cigarette pants, pencil skirts and even a modified version of a tuxedo shirt. He also played with construction by finishing seams on the outside. A few pieces were decorated with sequins or beads while still in keeping with the refined impression of the collection.

Ruching was another detail Costarella repeated throughout. He handled it in such a clever way by choosing just the right spots to add insets. I also loved the way he used different fabric types in some cases when layering the volumes and volumes of ruffles. This created even more visual interest adding dimension and helping to break up the solid colors (which was particularly effective with black on black). I’m not sure how I felt about his use of the oddly colored belts (doubled up many times); however it was an interesting way to add some focus to the waist.

Costarella’s Spring ’09 collection was so beautifully orchestrated. With every designer and every season, one can certainly find a piece or two that isn’t especially their favorite. In this case, I found a couple of dresses that were ruffled “to death” (especially the one wrapping around the arms), but that is just a reflection of my personal taste. These dresses were still spectacular and the rest of the collection was just so pretty, I didn’t even care.

-Stacy Lomman

Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn

Chado Ralph Rucci

Rain, Rush Hour and anticipation fill the tent, as we are anxious to view the featured designer for Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week. I was especially thrilled, as I had come to admire Rucci’s work as a design student.

Rucci’s ability to create weightlessness is his signature, for Spring 09 he crafted this sculpted illusion through insetting horsehair into various seams for malleable definition. This technique enhanced classic suited silhouettes and princess seams made of silk faille. This fabric with a soft drape and dense ribbed texture is a perfect choice for a suit and jacket. These shaped dolman and kimono style sleeves appeared to have gussets stitch into the underarm. A designer will incorporate certain techniques in which allow the garment to be wearable especially when manipulating form. This gusset usually a triangular shape allows the wearer to raise her arm. This three-quarter length pagoda sleeve is known as a Chado hallmark.

Rucci enhanced dimension and depth with his incorporation of geometric shapes. He blended these shapes made of double-faced wool with silk tulle. This strengthened the tension between the concept of structure and weightlessness. Juxtaposing shape with mesh highlighted a transparent, lightweight effect.

Rucci’s palette of primarily neutral tone: white, alabaster, khaki, taupe, ivory, beige and black graced the runway. He accented this collection with bursts of apple green, pale pink, cerise, coral & gold. The incorporation of watercolor and calligraphy inspired silk prints draw a cohesive use of color and allure into this ready-to-wear collection.

The return of Ralph Rucci to New York fashion week was a success. Showing his past two collections in Paris he is the first American designer to show at the couture shows since the 1930’s. His collections past and present reflect his passion and knowledge of art and culture around the world.

Sabyasachi

WELL WELL WELL Mr. Sabyasachi,
Your collection was mix match burlesque girl, meets a nerd/geek Eddie Sedgwick with eyeglasses. In other words, a 20 year old waif english teacher. Girls, watch out for the multi colored fish scale skirts as they are a real "Do-zzie" when the wind blows. The display of prints on silks to satin garments was mesmerizing, Harley Quin look out. But for the weak 20/20 vision impaired, this is an ideal look. Since most colors would blend into one. Sabyaachi's 3rd collection showed strong rays of earthy colors from shiny blacks to reds and browns. A very "A La" vintage ethnic mix with reptile and animal prints makes one think, "lions and tigers and bears o-my". But Sabyasachi I must applaud you by mixing up the simplicity of the over worked college student with a pen stuck in her hair. Reminding me of the decipline of those old school days.
Written by Fauncine Crane
Photos © Stevyn Llewellyn

Paola Hernandez

Paola Hernandez presented a very languid and luxurious show today at the Soho Grand Hotel. After the hustle and bustle of Fashion Week, it was lovely to enjoy a couple glasses of wine and interact with the models. The Mexican-born designer, Hernandez, also circled the room, describing her all-white collection. The looks were mainly androgynous, with linen sandals and large talisman rings worn by both male and female models.

There was also a runway presentation, but the models walked with exaggerated, unhurried steps, pausing several times so we could see the subtle details in the white cotton and linen pieces. The dimly lit room also added to the dreamy ambiance - I liked how clean, crisp lines were accentuated even more with shadows.

The racerback, long v-neck dress was my favorite. From afar, the piece resembled fine gauge knitwear, but the ribs and deep scoop played well on jersey for a more lavish appearance.

There were many facets to the presentation which I really enjoyed - the trim trenchcoat looked incredibly modern with the ultra-high collar. The elastic waist-banded jumpsuit was super sporty. A sharp blazer thrown over Bermuda-style shorts was fun and preppy.

Araks show

Wednesday, September 10, 2008

Araks Yeramyan debuted her Spring 2009 collection yesterday at the Altman Building. The outfits could be described as casual, quirky and comfortable. Lightweight fabrics were layered and mixed in unexpected and untraditional ways, producing an interesting but not necessarily successful result. Curvy lines and rounded shapes were the basis of the collection, recurring in each outfit in the form of princess seams, yoke pieces, pockets, necklines, and deep cut armholes. The round shape was also represented in circle prints.

A feeling of youth and playfulness was evident while models bounced down the runway wearing brightly color blocked high top sneakers and skull caps with ear flaps. While white was the key color, Araks blended a soft neutral palette with a shot of bright candy pink. A couple of dresses in teals and magenta (which is proving to be an important hue for Spring ’09) appeared in the mix as well.

Araks’ lingerie background was evident in the collection, as it could almost crossover into the category of loungewear. Many of the fabrics were soft and sheer, including lace and other novelty textures. Jersey also played a strong role, further emphasizing the comfort factor. Silhouettes were generous and not very body conscious, with the exception of a few pieces including a sexy sheer black lace sheath revealing black panties and a bra underneath.

Shorts sported wide yokes with deep pleats, and while not the most flattering style, they were much more current than the overdone bubble type shorts that showed up a couple of times. Narrow pants added extra fabric in the form of low pockets which stood out and pointed on the sides – not an area that most women want to accentuate.

Overall, the show was at least fun to watch but, the result was less than perfect.

-Stacy Lomman

Jordi Scott presents Infamous Revolution

Jordi Scott presented their Spring/Summer 2009 Infamous Revolution collection at Arena last night and it was a party! Open bar serving bulldog gin, a pre-show slide show of the Ramones and punk rock videos set the tone for the designers. I kept looking for Blondie, Mickey Ramone and Legs McNeil in the audience.

Backstage I had the opportunity to speak with the designers Jordi Scott & partner Starr. Jordi told me that her biggest influence from working for Betsey Johnson was that Betsey followed her voice and did what she wanted to do. Jordi & Starr seem very dedicated to this statement, music being the influence and inspiration they don’t follow traditional market trends yet understand that their customer is a rock star and wants to look and feel the part everyday.

This season’s collection consists of men & women’s street wear, ready to wear and a few evening dresses. The play on prints and use of mixing patterns works for the designer’s aesthetic.

The most memorable pieces in the collection were all black and white animal printed with a hint of men’s wear influence. A denim tuxedo short cuffed, detailed with printed insets at the center front was outlined in grommets and at the princess seams. The Cindy Jumper mixed a black and white bodice print of zebra and cropped fitted pant of leopard. Closing the show a finale dress also black and white animal print styled an asymmetrical neckline and hemline rouched at the side seam with textured ruffled embellishments.

Jordi Scott started their show with a bang- profiling a performance by the band Des Roar. Ben Wolcott- Guitar/Vocals, Lyla Vander- Drums/Vocals, Alan O'keeffe- Guitar, Ryan Spoto- Bass. This Rock/Garage style has seduced Starr, as they are her favorite band. Performing a short set for the fashion show was enough to spark my interest to check out one of their upcoming local performances. http://www.myspace.com/desroar

So for all you rock stars out there, men, women, boys and girls come shop Jordi Scott exclusively at Mark Montano Boutique 43 E. 9th Street NYC 10009.

Touching the Heavens with Feet Firmly Planted

Ports 1961- For those who question whether fashion can transcend its practical use to become something more, to touch on the divine, I suggest turning to the collection of an artist at work- Tia Cibani’s collection for Ports 1961. Her Spring ’09 collection, ‘Beloved of the Sky’, is the collaboration of true artisans, who obviously take great pride in their craft.

Cibani drew inspiration from impressionist painter Emily Carr’s journey through the Canadian totem forest. The color palette reflected Carr’s strong use of bold color- azure blue, subtle sand tones, soft but vibrant yellows and shots of spicy paprika made for a deliciously inspired color story. Cibani called upon various techniques to invoke the grandeur of the soaring totem poles- including tiered layers, tailored lines and manipulated fabrics. She used horizontal bands of fabric in monochromatic color and varying weights to great affect. She offered a plethora of well tailored suit- combining sliming skirts with roomy but structured jackets (often belted). In one intriguing look a model glided out in sand colored cigarette trouser with matching top cover in gigantic leaf shaped sequins. Other uses of embellishments were less successful, as in the barrage of fringe that often pushed some of the looks into the realm of costume.
At the root of this collection, beneath the artistic jewelry and sculptural hats (that may not translate to real life) was a collection of solid spring clothing. Both slouchy and cigarette trousers were present, paired with anvil shaped jackets and coats. Car coats are everywhere, and Cibani’s renditions were some of the most inviting, as in the plum colored version that featured tiers of cotton tulle that faded into tiers of charmeuse. A favorite look was the quintessentially Ports sheath in a textured black fabric belted with a gigantic pleated copper belt- it felt smart and important. A monochromatic print sheath with metallic coat belted is sure to make a strong statement in the board room. For those savvy enough to break the collection a part there are lots of unique pieces that are sure to become Spring ‘09 favorites.
Whether or not you are fashion forward enough to go for the head to toe Ports' look, you certainly have to recognize its merit. This season Cibani partnered with three unique designers to realize her vision. The masterful millinery skills of Karen Henriksen were noteworthy. Jewelry designer Lina Peterson who is well known for her use of unconventional materials offered an innovative and modern take on jewelry. Julia Lundstien shoes provided just the right quotient of organic earthiness to this texturally rich collection.
Perhaps what I found most endearing, most special about this collection, was that it had integrity. This was the culmination of a collaboration of artists who were thinking, striving to create something that upheld their standard of beauty. Whether or not we all subscribe to it is partly irrelevant- it was clear that they were displaying the height and girth of their passion and their abilities and for that I applaud them.

A. Coelho

The Architect of Fashion goes for a Dip

Yeohlee- In a season where craftsmanship is becoming a major story- Yeohlee Teng stands a pillar and reminder that making beautiful clothes is an art form.

For Spring Yeohlee Teng offered a meditation on the globule shape of jellyfish juxtaposed with a surprisingly new take on the geometric rigidity of cubes and parabola shapes. The result- a collection that felt organic and ethereal but grounded.

Well known for her structured clothing this collection felt decidedly softer and I dare say, even feminine. The Yeohlee aesthetic is rooted in clean, strong linear lines and the exploration of form and structure, so this season’s softer direction felt especially fresh.
Popular to a sect of fashion intellectuals who count on her each season to provide, what have become Yeohlee staples- useful but intriguing separate including- trousers, capelets, and hooded coats. This collection featured jumpers paired with parka like jackets that looked modern and actually very wearable. Yeohlee is every bit a craftsperson and each season she takes on a new technique, this season it appeared to be shirring and tucking. I was particular fascinated by what Teng referred to as shirring- essential a bias torque ruching that would diagonally bisect blouses, dresses and skirts. Teng echoed the whimsical shapes of jellyfish with an ingenuity that is true of only a well seasoned architect. This technique of shirring produced the billowy look that is characteristic of floating jellyfish. Instead of collars, Teng framed the face with this amorphous shape on blouses and light weight jackets. This softer incarnation of the Yeohlee look was a masterful rendition of deductions and redirection.

The collection was rendered in a soothing palette and interesting fabrics. The combination of sheer or translucent jerseys mixed with starchy fabrics lent a sensual and tactile element to collection. For Spring ’09 Teng’s play on sheer and opaque fabric added an intriguing tension to the collection. Sheer blouses with linen skirts were the perfect balance of languid and rigid. Always a purest when it comes to selecting her color palette for spring, Yeohlee constrained her color story to soft sand tones highlighted with a bold coral underlined with lots of white.

For Spring ’09 Yeohlee invites us to take a dip with her and explore the weightless beauty of deep waters and easy dressing. True to her roots but reaching for the unknown this collection was an underwater dream. Teng stands a steady presence in the roaring sea of fashion trends and comings and goings- her work always retains a standard of quality and beauty that uplifts and moves the industry forward.



A. Coelho
Photos © Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, 2008, all rights reserved

Mara Hoffman

For Spring 2009, Mara Hoffman presented a collection suitable for an exotic, tropical getaway. A bevy of geometric prints and intricate floral details on one-shoulder sheaths and tunics looked refreshing, especially when paired with tailored pieces. Airy cotton and linen paired well with leather accessories and canvas trenchcoats. Bandeau tops and tapered shorts were staples as well as the “Mara Tote”, a hot travel accessory and chic vest all in one!

Resort-fabulous pieces include a white babydoll, absolutely darling with frog clasps under an embroidered, kimono-sleeved robe. A halter swimsuit featuring black and yellow henna designs and the ornate blue and orange sari-wrapped bikini were marvelous.

Pre-show interview with Cho Cheng

I was super on-time to a 9:00 am show (yay) in full regalia: eyelashes, black dress, new belt and trusty Nicole Miller's. Shows rarely actually start on time but I did score a pre-show backstage interview with Cho Cheng.

Alicia: So Cho, it is so nice to meet you and I am so looking forward to the show.

Cho: Thanks, I hope you like it.

Alicia: With this being an Olympic Year and the games being in China, did that have any influence in your Spring 2009 Collection?

Cho: Well, I was at the opening in Beijing. I think all Chinese artists were at least subconsciously influenced by the games being held in our home country.

Alicia: What part of China are you from?

Cho: I was born and raised in Hong Kong. My parents are from mainland China.

Alicia: Do you have a muse?

Cho: Well I love NY socialites especially Tinsley Mortimer. I also love the Gossip Girls. You will see lots of mini skirts and padded shoulders.

Alicia: What is your favorite silhouette?

Cho: I really like elegance so I am inspired by the 1930's and 1940's. I shorten the hemlines to keep it modern. I also keep the hair simple; this show features long ponytails with headbands- school girl. I want the girls to look sleek, impeccable and glamorous.

Alicia: Thanks you for much for speaking with me and good luck on your show.

Gottex

Images from the Gottex show by Stevyn Llewellyn

The Tale of the Ruby Red Slipper

The fashion shows do take center stage during fashion week… but there are other displays in the tents that deserve equal attention.

The Wizard of Oz Ruby Slipper Collection is heavenly. No doubt Carrie from Sex in the City, would have gladly accepted Big's proposal with any of these beauties.

The Warner Bros. The Wizard of Oz production with Judy Garland, is turning 70 next year. In honor of this milestone, a team of fashion masterminds paid tribute to Dorothy’s iconic ruby slippers by re-imagining them in their own design style.

Each of these gems (pun intended, as many are enhanced with Swarovski crystals) have their own little glass house. The entire collection is also on display at Saks Fifth Avenue until September 13. The shoes will be auctioned off next year and all the proceeds with be given to the Elizabeth Glaser Pediatric Aids Foundation.

A. Testoni






Oscar de la Renta



On yes, the yellow brick road.

Alicia aka "Fashiona"
www.todaystyle.today.com

Diane Vonfurstenberg

Photos from the DVF show

Twinkle by Wenlan

Twinkle by Wenlan’s Spring 2009 collection takes inspiration from 1960s iconic actress Jean Seberg. Indeed, designer Wenlan Chia infused old Hollywood glamour in a whimsical and ultra-feminine interpretation of Seberg’s “school girl charm”.

There were vintage-inspired prints galore, including splattered, sugared diamonds, cross-stitch sparrow and blossom motifs, and even an animal print suggestive of a spotted Dalmatian coat. Creamy hues of terracotta, lemon yellow, and mint green brought an upbeat, bohemian highlight. Bouncy georgette, satin chiffon, and dry voile layered sweetly over classic, masculine textures of houndstooth and oxford.

Suits were trimmed down to double-breasted strapless dresses and pleated bustiers. Wide belts cinched the look together. A structured, beehive-style updo and stacks of fabric-covered bangles added an alluring touch to the free-spirited collection.

Always noteworthy is Twinkle’s signature knitwear, which took a daintier approach this season. Cotton/cashmere loosely draped, racerback halters and dolman-sleeved sweater dresses provided a luxurious feel to the trim silhouettes.

by Tiffany Chang
photos © Dan Lucca

Two Deliriously Jubilant Doses of Youthful Zeal

Miss Sixty- Fashion shows are always bustling scenes but there are certain shows that seem to bring out a very specific type of fashion enthusiast – the kind who hoots and hollers and waits in line for hours just for a shot at “standing room” seating- Miss Sixty continues to be one those cult like shows.
For Spring 09 the Miss Sixty aficionado can look forward to youthful zeal! Miss Sixty is always a show about peace and love – and well just really fun clothing. Anyone who is familiar at all with fashion knows that if you want fun denim Miss Sixty is the place to go. More and more however, the Miss Sixty collection is addressing all the wardrobe needs of their fashion hungry clientele. The prescription for this coming spring is easy enough: prints, color and denim of course!
Chiffon blouses in colorful prints revisit the peace-lovin’ days of 70’s. Even maxis made an appearance, but how can you go 70’s without them! The collection offered a wide spectrum of separates that can be layered to create a very personal look. Billowy tops in a butterfly print and racerback tanks with various silk screened images rounded out the offerings. All in one jumpsuits and rompers are sure to insurrect a tween frenzy.

The palette ranged from neon brights tempered with white to touches of tan and soft ecru colored denim. And just in case you have overdosed on skin-tight denim the Spring‘09 Miss Sixty collection offers an unexpected antidote: Harmen pants. Yes, Harem pants- in your choice of chiffon, lurex or denim. Believe it or not, I am fairly certain some will make their way from the runway to the streets.


Thuy- Need another dose of happy? Well, Thuy will certainly deliver. For Spring’09 the designer showed a hodgepodge of sunbathed separates. It was evident that this collection was aiming to provide a quotient of cheeky ease. Charmeuse mini shorts cuffed in patent leather, shrunken blazers and flirty dresses are sure to make an impression this spring. A Slouchy car coat in bright orange and another in a salt and pepper with shoulder detail were interesting albeit random. This collection is best left to the adeptly fashionable tween set, who are bested prepared to make use of the plethora of pieces that can be layered and mixed for girly glam.

It may soon be time to dawn our new winter coats but for the moment it’s still warm enough to plan next summer’s wardrobe!

A. Coelho

Harlan Bel

I very much looked forward to Harlan Bel’s Spring 2009 show after learning that designer Brandy Lunsford draws inspiration from equestrian themes. Lunsford’s collections always feature tailored, functional pieces that convey “cool confidence and carefree beauty”.

There was something very dignified and noble in Lunsford’s presentation. Classic black and white formed the foundation of the collection, especially in the form of leather and silk. Pleasant jewel tones of turquoise, peridot, and amethyst emblazoned the sleek palette.


Crisp, clean pieces were anything but plain when embellished with canvas and suede suspender-like straps, tiered pleats, and sharp cut-outs. The plethora of short shorts, cropped tees, and strapless dresses were youthful and sexy!

I was absolutely fixated at the frizzy, crimped ponytails swinging back and forth - the wrapped black leather added a touch of high class. The ebony platform heels really brought to mind dainty, galloping hooves. The most amusing accessory was the sophisticated, lady-like eyewear.

Terexov- Simply Brilliant

Terexov is Russia's answer to our Zac Posen. This 29 year old wunderkund was already chosen as one of Style.com "Ten Talented to Watch" for his Spring 2007 Collection.

His Spring 2009 collection... simply divine. Terexov simply embraces color in every sense of the word. Chanel(a model of color) opened the show with a STUNNING knee-length, full of color silk dress featuring a world map. Terexov and his team completed the look with platform satin heels and a white leather briefcase.

All the models' hair was done up in 1940's twists and chignons and several carried lady like clutches. Their elegant walk contrasted with the high energy music from 1970s worthy of a blackploitation soundtrack. Every color from angelic white to kelly green flowed up and down the runway, the tailoring and workmanship was inspiring.

The Cold War is over but Russia's fashion game is heating up.

Alicia aka"Fashiona"
http://todaystyle.today.com/

ALICE MCCALL SS 2009, Forms to Look For

Text and Photos by Gaby Greenlee

Alice McCall's Spring 2009 show, "All Are Not Insects", was thematically appropriate to the Spring and Summer seasons and maybe not at all a strange title for evoking notions of feminine form and style. The more successful of her pieces paid attention to structural detail (and easily called to mind the attraction of insect forms) without losing the grasp that actual women would be wearing them and not small arthropods.

Her limited palette and the linear theme in some of the pieces also gave strong emphasis to her designs. Pieces that accentuated the lines of the waist or followed the form of the bust or heightened the shadows cast by shoulder blades were able to say something simple about a woman's form while simultaneously pushing style. Less interesting were some of the garments that were more fluid in form because they didn't seem to say one thing or another about the wearer or about an intention-- though one of the more fluid pieces was of a beautiful white, ethereal, lace-thin material, I was more interested in the fabric than in the piece itself.

Still, a few combinations, like the simple blue skirt paired with a soft, deeply-scooped black top threatened to billow into obsolete, flowy, organic, forms but held on to the structure of the model's body just enough to make it interesting. Ultimately, maybe Alice McCall appeals to young women more when she allows for roomier clothing but I think the strongest current in her collection is the one that tilts away from the more easily digestible shifts and frocks and attempts to rein these in to give accent to a woman's body.

"Baby Love" show - Kahri Spring 2009

Pouring rain does not usually put you in the mood to venture out into the streets for a fashion show, but a lover of all things fashion will make sacrifices, even if it means you arrive at the venue sopping wet from head to toe. The Kahri show was dry and indoors thankfully, but by no means a big budget production and was disappointingly short and long awaited for. The peppy music of the Shangri-La's and a few guests bopping in their seats softened the blow of the hour and ten minute wait it took for the show to start. 

It was a casual setting in the small studio, people were still putting up big pink and gold dots up onto a black fabric curtain and helping themselves to purple and pink frosted miniature cupcakes and punch. The whole production seemed very much like a high school art exhibition, not at all what one would expect from a designer whose work has been seen on celebrities like Fergie (who has worn the designs, according to Kahri's website). 

The show consisted of 12 looks, also perplexing, considering the extra long, dramatic wait to present the line. The outfits mainly ranged between pops of white, pink, blue, or purple among black. Exposed zippers and gold and silver hardware dotted the clothing giving it a hardcore chick look to the standard silhouettes like nipped in waists and bubble skirt hems. The models strutted down a checkerboard runway holding black and white signage, pointing out the name of the outfit. The "Leader of the Pack" jacket was a black satin cropped sleeve with exposed zippers running down a princess seam. The extended tab in the front with snap button closures was a nice "motorcycle chic" touch to the ensemble. Kahri showed looks for harder edged perspectives, but also a softer, more feminine, bloussoned waist and sleeve look. 

Albeit that KahriAnne Kerr is a young designer and has a long time to settle into her aesthetic, her show was fairly comme ci -comme ça and "too little too late". In any case, fashion is perspective, so props to KahriAnne for making it this far from Tripoli, Iowa to show during New York City's prestigious fashion week. Cheers!

Tracy Reese

Tracy Reese’s Spring 2009 collection is a romantic, safari adventure with Oriental undertones. This season, the designer sought to present the “brilliant progression” of nature in the springtime through “delicate, yet sophisticated pieces”.

A garden fantasy was created by splashes of lime, nectarine, and peacock blue while sparkling chandelier earrings and beaded tassel necklaces evoked a majestic celebration. The silhouettes were organic and refreshing - even pin-tucked and ruched pieces gave way to open sleeves and relaxed hems. A tropical breeze emerged in the form of mini lantern skirts, “Macau green” dresses, as well as high collar eyelet blouses, reminiscent of a traditional chipau.

Onyx and cream were softened in a concoction of satin cowls and chiffon floral appliqués. The solid one-shoulder gowns and cinched trenchcoats provided a lovely harmony to the watercolor blouson dresses and Van Gogh-inspired prints. Overall, it was a cheerful and optimistic portrayal of the evolution of spring.

Rock And Republic shows Brilliant Color

Written By Tomas Alexander Coelho
Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn

Chocolate. Amber. Cocoa. Blush. Color ruled the Rock and Republic runway! I should point out that the Rock and Republic Spring Collection was restrained to a palette of black and white. The models however, were every color of the rainbow. It was the best use of color I have seen in seasons!

The call to arms for diversity has been heralded by the people at Rock and Republic. For the Spring Collection a spectrum of beauties ranging from the mocha dazzler Chanel Iman (who opened the show) to Tawny skinned Dujan strutted down the glossy white catwalk. After much debate in the industry about the lack of diversity on the runway, it was encouraging to see the fruits of that dialogue move casting in a more progressive direction. The casting felt intentional but not forced. Face it, models are beautiful people. But more often then not when it comes to minority beauty we have seen only select portraits of that beauty: an ebony African model with her hair cropped short or a stick straight-raven haired, Asian model. There are nuances within minority beauty and they were on full display at last night show. One model after the next- another refreshing representation of diverse beauty. Now for the day when a line-up like this is run- of-the-mill.

Rock and Republic can always be counted of for a good time! The house lights go down. The speakers start pumping sexy remixes; music video lights descend from the rafters and its showtime! For those who secretly dream of being a rock star this collection is one stop shopping. Justin may have brought sexy back but Rock and Republic is certainly keeping it alive! The Spring '09 collection lack none of the illustrious rock star wear we have come to expect. Leather, black and white glazed lean jeans and lots of skin bearing tops sailed down the runway. Bomber jackets revisited: this time think slick- no more bulk it's all streamlined silhouettes (for the guys and the ladies alike). This is collection is not for the faint of heart so strut with caution.

Alexandre Herchcovitch

Alexandre Herchcovitch stayed true to his affinity toward one world in his Spring 2009 presentation. The Brazilian designer aimed to juxtapose Western and Middle Eastern influences to create a “multi-ethnic” army. In the process, he conveys an inspiring and credible message of unity and peace.

The “Army of Love” collection represented a global village where a vision of integrated culture and compassion stood at the forefront. A legion marched down the runway in sheer, delicate “uniforms” of trim waistcoats with gold studs, patchwork tunics, and slouchy breeches. There was a hint of an aristocratic air, yet the floral embroidery and harness expressed a rustic sentiment. Tightly braided updos and buckled ankle boots completed the look.

I enjoyed how utilitarian details were reinterpreted in a more frivolous nature. Military influences became softened amid a sea of silk georgette, lace, and pastel shades of mint, lavender and taupe. Cascading ruffles replaced the ornamental epaulette and dainty paisley prints brought to mind insignias and badges.

Three Shows

Venexiana, Academy of Art University and Erin Fetherston, Spring 2009 collections. Photos by stevyn Llewellyn. More images can be seen here: Metro Fashion Association.