Rain, Rush Hour and anticipation fill the tent, as we are anxious to view the featured designer for Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week. I was especially thrilled, as I had come to admire Rucci’s work as a design student.
Rucci’s ability to create weightlessness is his signature, for Spring 09 he crafted this sculpted illusion through insetting horsehair into various seams for malleable definition. This technique enhanced classic suited silhouettes and princess seams made of silk faille. This fabric with a soft drape and dense ribbed texture is a perfect choice for a suit and jacket. These shaped dolman and kimono style sleeves appeared to have gussets stitch into the underarm. A designer will incorporate certain techniques in which allow the garment to be wearable especially when manipulating form. This gusset usually a triangular shape allows the wearer to raise her arm. This three-quarter length pagoda sleeve is known as a Chado hallmark.
Rucci enhanced dimension and depth with his incorporation of geometric shapes. He blended these shapes made of double-faced wool with silk tulle. This strengthened the tension between the concept of structure and weightlessness. Juxtaposing shape with mesh highlighted a transparent, lightweight effect.
Rucci’s palette of primarily neutral tone: white, alabaster, khaki, taupe, ivory, beige and black graced the runway. He accented this collection with bursts of apple green, pale pink, cerise, coral & gold. The incorporation of watercolor and calligraphy inspired silk prints draw a cohesive use of color and allure into this ready-to-wear collection.
The return of Ralph Rucci to New York fashion week was a success. Showing his past two collections in Paris he is the first American designer to show at the couture shows since the 1930’s. His collections past and present reflect his passion and knowledge of art and culture around the world.
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