BETSEY JOHNSON

Betsey Johnson has been a main stay in the retail and fashion world for over 40 years. Her whimsical, flirty, punk rock designs stand as a reminder to the fashion world that fashion can be fun. Betsey is now a proud grandmother for the second time and the new addition to her family obviously influenced her Spring Collection. The extremely theatrical show had three distinct groupings starting with floral maxi dresses and jumpers that if produced in miniature would be appropriate for a toddler. The somewhat silly frocks were worn by models with wigs of purple, pink and white cut blunt and short. Some girls even sucked on lollipops as they strutted down the runway to apropos songs such as “Be my Baby,” “Candy Girl,” and “Mr. Sandman.”
For the second act an actor clad as a pirate made mischief on the runway to the song “Wild Thing.” This was soon followed by mini dresses over striped or skeleton printed leggings, hot pants and bathing suits all influenced by the pirate theme. Next came signature Betsey pieces- floral prints in bright neon colors such as green, pink and blue. Good girls gone bad rounded out the theatrical show: models in white sheer petticoat dresses, hands cuffed behind their backs. Betsey took her customary cartwheel down the runway in a Peter Pan inspired green sequined dress and attendants left the show in high spirits.


Photos by Mercedes Benz fashion Week

MONIQUE LHUILLIER

Always beautiful and feminine, Monique Lhuillier’s spring presentation did not disappoint. Softly sculpted gowns in colors inspired by a vacation in a tropical beach local flowed down the runway. The aptly named colors (azure, sand, summer, pacific blue) and back-to-nature prints such as wave and wheat stalk further exemplified the inspiration.
A silk tulle asymmetrically draped gown in a blue that Lhuiller dubbed “lagoon” appeared to stream along the runway exemplifying the water it was chosen to represent. Beading and tulle overlays further conveyed movement in a collection that was as relaxing and refreshing as a day at the beach.

Photos by Mercedes Benz fashion Week

SERGIO DAVILA

Sergio Davila has been producing menswear for some time, but this was his debut runway show under the tents at New York Fashion Week. His elegantly tailored suiting was often edged with athletic stripes or other quirky detail that lent a unique air to his pieces. Some suits were accented with slightly feminine detail such as mandarin collars or loose knitting that provided glimpses of skin. The women’s wear was sporty and sexy with sheer crocheting and keyhole detailing. The entire collection appeared casual and comfortable yet extremely well tailored- all in all an exceedingly successfully runway debut.



Photos by Mercedes Benz fashion Week

TONI MATICEVSKI

Toni Maticevski’s show was held off site at the Roger Williams Hotel on Sunday, September 7, 2008. Maticevski is a young Australian designer showing for the fourth time at New York fashion week. His Spring 2009 collection was inspired by both the book “Inventive Paris Clothes 1909-1939” and by the fashion of this period. His inspiration was immediately evident in several of his 1920s inspired dresses. These short dresses were hemmed with silk fringe that swung as the models walked and were reminiscent of a flapper girl’s costume.

Maticevski choose to work mostly in silk and lace, often embellished by flower appliqué or long coiled shoulder details. His draping and pleating was beautifully accomplished and at times origami-esque. A few pieces were extremely sheer, but the silhouettes of these dresses and even the boudoir feel added to the overall nostalgic mood of the presentation. The collection was exquisitely tailored and wearable yet full of interesting detail to distinguish it.

Return of the King

CHADO- He is back and in fighting form- on Friday night Ralph Rucci closed New York Fashion Week with all the fanfare and warm embrace of the returned prodigal son. Rucci is a prodigious talent and while he is often lost in the minutiae of the New York fashion set, his work stands as a testament to his great talent. As the world of haute couture skirts dangerously close to oblivion it is important that we uphold one of our most brilliant haute courtiers.

I must admit that I am partially biased; I have long been a Rucci enthusiast. For Spring ’09 Rucci sent out a strong line up of clothing suitable for every occasion- from smart day wear to gripping evening gowns. The couturier crystallized those hallmark Ruccisms and move them into a more approachable direction. He showed continued mastery over the art of construction.

Chado is a meditation on form, line and structure. Each season many designers attempt to redesign the wheel, but Rucci instead continues an exploration of his signature shapes enlisting new applications and techniques. Bold shoulders seemed particularly new for the designer who is known for a more gentle approach towards the shoulder and décolleté. He used various types of artistic fringe to great affect, inciting riotous applause as models turned on the runway to reveal the insets of fringe. Illusion with geometric cut outs were a strong motif in this season’s line up. The cutouts appeared on a tulle coat over an A-line dress and on a black sheer top paired with slouchy black satin trousers. Other moments of decadent indulgence included the gowns with Rothko inspired paielletes or the slinky floor length sequins skirt with sheer top and matching jacket.


Spring 09 marked a departure for Rucci who seemed to be courting a younger generation of fashion intellectuals. Though at moments the collection showed the wavering uncertainty of a babe horse gaining her sea legs, Rucci has the talent to address a younger audience and his Spring collection suggests the beginning this new courtship. The collection was proliferated with a plethora of coquettish dresses that remain true to the spirit of Chado. Rucci was careful to remain mindful of his faithful followers offering intriguing pant suits with jackets of rounded shoulders with detailing on tulle or crepe. This collection was an exercise in restrains and what I expect will be the blossoming of a new point of view at the house of Chado.

Welcome back Ralph!

A. Coelho

Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn

Aurelio Costarella

Ruffles reigned supreme at Aurelio Costarella’s Spring ’09 presentation last Thursday. If asked to sum up the collection in one word, I would have to say “feminine” -- O.K., “ULTRA-feminine.” Costarella knows how to dress women. The pieces floated gracefully down the catwalk with models appearing light as feathers (well, actually they were). Sheer fabrics of silk organza and chiffon helped to portray the light, airy mood of the collection, while satin and taffeta provided luxurious shine. The color palette was minimal with just a hint of color sneaking into the mainly neutral story.

Costarella played with proportion keeping silhouettes narrow and sleek while decorating them will full, layered ruffled treatments. Fabrics were multi layered creating dimension and organza’s nature maintained crisp shapes. Asymmetry was an important factor making a statement as many models bared one shoulder (which was a recurring trend throughout Fashion Week). I particularly adored a narrow black micro mini with a huge array of ruffles piled on the right shoulder.

There seemed to be a “black tie” message in the collection as Costarella utilized black and white quite liberally and the jacket made a statement on the runway (feminized with ruffled collars and peplum backs). He also showed cigarette pants, pencil skirts and even a modified version of a tuxedo shirt. He also played with construction by finishing seams on the outside. A few pieces were decorated with sequins or beads while still in keeping with the refined impression of the collection.

Ruching was another detail Costarella repeated throughout. He handled it in such a clever way by choosing just the right spots to add insets. I also loved the way he used different fabric types in some cases when layering the volumes and volumes of ruffles. This created even more visual interest adding dimension and helping to break up the solid colors (which was particularly effective with black on black). I’m not sure how I felt about his use of the oddly colored belts (doubled up many times); however it was an interesting way to add some focus to the waist.

Costarella’s Spring ’09 collection was so beautifully orchestrated. With every designer and every season, one can certainly find a piece or two that isn’t especially their favorite. In this case, I found a couple of dresses that were ruffled “to death” (especially the one wrapping around the arms), but that is just a reflection of my personal taste. These dresses were still spectacular and the rest of the collection was just so pretty, I didn’t even care.

-Stacy Lomman

Photos by Stevyn Llewellyn

Chado Ralph Rucci

Rain, Rush Hour and anticipation fill the tent, as we are anxious to view the featured designer for Mercedes-Benz New York Fashion Week. I was especially thrilled, as I had come to admire Rucci’s work as a design student.

Rucci’s ability to create weightlessness is his signature, for Spring 09 he crafted this sculpted illusion through insetting horsehair into various seams for malleable definition. This technique enhanced classic suited silhouettes and princess seams made of silk faille. This fabric with a soft drape and dense ribbed texture is a perfect choice for a suit and jacket. These shaped dolman and kimono style sleeves appeared to have gussets stitch into the underarm. A designer will incorporate certain techniques in which allow the garment to be wearable especially when manipulating form. This gusset usually a triangular shape allows the wearer to raise her arm. This three-quarter length pagoda sleeve is known as a Chado hallmark.

Rucci enhanced dimension and depth with his incorporation of geometric shapes. He blended these shapes made of double-faced wool with silk tulle. This strengthened the tension between the concept of structure and weightlessness. Juxtaposing shape with mesh highlighted a transparent, lightweight effect.

Rucci’s palette of primarily neutral tone: white, alabaster, khaki, taupe, ivory, beige and black graced the runway. He accented this collection with bursts of apple green, pale pink, cerise, coral & gold. The incorporation of watercolor and calligraphy inspired silk prints draw a cohesive use of color and allure into this ready-to-wear collection.

The return of Ralph Rucci to New York fashion week was a success. Showing his past two collections in Paris he is the first American designer to show at the couture shows since the 1930’s. His collections past and present reflect his passion and knowledge of art and culture around the world.